Bitter Old Oakland

I stopped by the Old Oakland Farmers' Market at half past noon on Friday. Located at Broadway and Ninth in so-called Old Oakland - between downtown financial/government buildings and chinatown - this farmers market focuses on low prices and asian produce, but also has a few bakeries and hot food producers. It was a warm and breezy October day and people were out on their lunch break, enjoying the music at the market.

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One of my favorite market musicians with a beautiful voice and great personality was there today:Suzanne. She sings songs from the likes of Leonard Cohen on her twelve string guitar (that's a picture of her with Mr. Cohen taped to the front of her table).

A fascinating 'asian produce' item is Bitter Melon (although I think the term 'asian produce' is really broad and too general, it is often used, so I'll use it with some qualification and reservation). Bitter Melon is unpalatable to most Americans. That's because we don't really have many bitter flavors in our diets - except for chicories, and I would wager that most people don't eat many, if any, chicories. I am a huge fan of arugula and escarole, especially in fall. But, Bitter Melon takes bitter to an extreme, and it adds an astringent-sourness to a dish. In many parts of Asia and the rest of the world, bitter would be one of many flavor components in a meal, along with savory, spicy, sour, sweet, and 'earthy'. We're just not accustomed to bitterness.

Bitter flavors are often thought to have a cleansing, warming, and detoxifying effect on the body. In fact, Bitter Melon is and has been used medicinally all around the world for centuries. In the Amazon, Africa, India, and Asia, Bitter Melon has been used to treat diabetes (it has a powerful blood-sugar-lowering effect), hepatitis, fevers, hemorrhoids, sores and wounds, infections and parasites, scabies and skin diseases. In addition to gastrointestinal problems, it is also used to treat menstrual and pulmonary issues.




Bitter Melon looks like a cucumber with bumps or indentations all over, although it is actually a member of the gourd family. There are Phillipino, Thai, and Indian varieties at most market, and be sure to check which one you're getting. The Phillipino variety is the most mild, with indentations all around. Thai and Indian varieties have spikes all around and are much more pungently bitter; work your way up to that one. The best way to prepare them is to either concentrate it into a shot of juice if you have a juicer, boil the whole plant (often for sale on the side of the table) to make a tea, or prepare the fruit/gourd in a vegetable dish. You can eat the skin, but scoop out the serrated seeds inside (like any gourd). The bitterness is more pronounced at first, but your tastebuds quickly adjust if you can stick with it for a few bites; it's definitely an acquired taste. Here's a simple recipe from Michael Murray's, N.D., Encyclopedia of Healing Foods (where I learned most of the nutritional information about Bitter Melon). Use it as an appetizer or side dish.

Bitter Melon and Eggplant Curry

1 bitter melon, cut into 1/4-inch discs
1 eggplant, cubed
Chili, Cumin, Turmeric Powders
Canola Oil (expeller-pressed)

Heat a saute pot (with a lid) over medium-high heat. Add a generous amount of canola oil and liberal amounts of chili, cumin, and turmeric powders in equal proportions. Stir through. Add the bitter melon and eggplant and saute for several minutes. Add water whenever necessary. Add salt and cover with lid. Simmer for a several minutes more or until cooked through. Served with rice.

Got a bitter melon recipe? Email me.

Bitter happiness. Happy bitterness.